tunnel vision

It's quite fitting that the name of the climb that I did earlier this week at Red Rock describes how my training has been for this block. I was originally planning on getting on Cookie Monster and Cat in the Hat, but my guide told me that it has been a crowded route, so I basically let him pick anything he was psyched to climb. It's always great getting a recommendation for a guide. My guide in Boulder recommended Thomas and he was awesome. He chose the perfect route. Tunnel Vision is a 6 pitch 5.7+ route, but let's just say, there are some tricky sections that felt more like 5.9-5.10 grade. It was mostly in the shade, important because it was unseasonably warm last week and the route was just super fun and unique. The approach was about 40-45 minutes of hiking with the trail getting pretty steep near the base of the climb. When we got to the base, I noticed that the rock was white instead of red. Turns out we would be climbing on Angel Food Wall, still sandstone but mostly white, with little spots of red rock scattered throughout. One of the best features of the climb were the "moqui balls", these brownish red spheres attached to the wall that are fun to balance on. The "chicken heads", pointy features on the wall are great to use as hand holds.

Thomas has climbed Tunnel Vision at least 50 times, so we moved pretty quickly. The crux move was on the first pitch- getting around a roof. The "easiest" way was to hand jam into the crack on the left, but I have almost zero experience hand-jamming, so after trying and failing at hand-jamming, I had to make it harder by pulling on small crimps on the face. Luckily, there was no one waiting to get on the route because I was able to get around the roof, but it wasn't pretty. The rest of pitch 1 was easy climbing. I was warned that there would be a few other tricky spots on the route.

At the base waiting to climb, contemplating how to get around that roof

Close to the top of pitch 1, pulling on chicken heads

On pitch 2, there was a fun little chimney section that was wide enough to stem

Pitch 3 was quite slabby and sandstone is so forgiving, that you can basically just walk up the wall. It's so sticky and as long as you can trust your feet, it's very easy climbing.

Pitch 4 was all fun, steeper face climbing, more like what I usually like to climb in the gym. We were in the sun for a bit there, but it wasn't too hot yet, so it was still really fun.

Pitch 5 was the most exciting pitch of the climb. It was a first for me. At the top of the 4th pitch, there was a nice big ledge, so we took a few minutes to get a drink and a snack.

Pitch 5 ended up being a cave, followed by a huge chimney. Lots of 3D climbing and looking behind to find holds or places to push off of. Near the top of pitch 5, I had to walk up a crack, foot-jamming my way up the crack. That was a little painful, since I'm not used to it, but I was proud of myself for committing to the moves and getting myself up efficiently.

Thomas soloing up the first section of the cave

Making my way up the 100+ ft tall chimney. Not much for hand-holds, just had to trust the feet.

Exiting the chimney

As usual, I was super bummed when I learned that it was already the last pitch. Pitch 6 was short and straight-forward.

Looking up at pitch 6

Coming around the last corner on pitch 6

I think we climbed the entire 6 pitches (~760 ft) in about 2.5 hours. Unfortunately, the walk off the climb was not easy. The fun of the cave and chimney meant that there was no way to rappel down, especially because there was a section in the cave that required traversing around a huge bulge to get out. So instead, we spent about an hour hiking down to the base with a lot of tricky footing. There were way too many opportunities to sprain an ankle. Luckily, we both got to the base unscathed. As much as I didn't enjoy hiking down, it was worth it, because Tunnel Vision is now up there, amongst my favorite outdoor climbs.

Selfie with Thomas after topping out to send to Peter (guide from Boulder)

I'm never hungry while climbing, but afterwards I was starving. Luckily, Thomas was able to recommend an awesome Thai restaurant (Lemongrass and Lime) that was in the same shopping mall where we had met up in the morning. The Golden Purses appetizer was so unique and delicious- mashed potato in fried rice pouches in a massaman curry.

Scrumptious!

I spent the next day walking for 7-8 hours at a trade show and was lucky enough to get in a run in the desert the following morning. Getting to spend a few days in desert this time of year is a real gift. I just love the vastness of the desert and I love seeing all of the vegetation out there. So much variation- even the number of different cactus species is incredible.

Never tire of seeing the sunlight hit these mountains

Joshua Trees

Besides the 5 hour delay that got me home at 4AM, it was really the perfect few days in the desert. I got home in time to see my daughter walk in her school Halloween parade. This year, they started a tradition where 8th graders walk the kindergarteners at the parade. Super cute.

Writing this on a Sunday night, I've just wrapped up week 10 of a 12 week training plan.

"Tunnel Vision" would be a great name for this training block for a couple of reasons. On my commute days, I've had to be up by 4:15AM and out the door by 5AM running by headlamp. I've actually enjoyed these runs, as long as I go to bed early enough. I like just being able to see right in front of me. When I've had hill workouts especially, it's been easier to just run and not see the top of the hill. Tunnel Vision has kept me focused on these hill workouts. Tunnel Vision also describes my mindset during this block. I've been super disciplined and haven't missed a run, workout, cross-training or strength/mobility session. My routine is to write out all of my runs/workouts/cross-training on Sunday night and then I don't question anything. I've been fortunate enough to be healthy this entire block, so I haven't had to modify anything. Just 2 more weeks until I get to do the "THING". Fingers crossed I can stay healthy until then. Of course, now as the weather changes, folks in my household have been getting sick here and there. Knock wood, I can avoid all of the illnesses.